SURFING GREATEST CONVERSATIONS: JON PYZEL IS SHAPING HISTORY
Photography by Pyzel Archives
Jon Pyzel’s pedigree runs much deeper than just being the shaper for the best surfer on the planet. You gotta go back a bit. As a teen surfer kid in Santa Barbara, Jon Pyzel was close witness to the birth of the 80’s Tommy Curren era and Al Merrick’s subsequent global design dominance. A powerful influence that caused Jon to pivot his dreams from a pro surfing career to an underground shaping career. At first mentored by shaper Matt Moore of the famed Rincon Designs surf shop (that was within sight of California’s best point break), Jon upped stakes when he moved to the North Shore in 1992. It was there, now mentored by maestro shaper Jeff Bushman and possessing a keen interest in modernizing the Hawaiian designs that came before his time, that Jon Pyzel developed a reputation as a shaper for the future.
As it happened, John John Florence and his family lived right next door. A lifelong friendship with the Florence family grew and soon Jon Pyzel was shaping boards for the blond young man who would someday become the best surfer in the world. With the ultimate test pilot securely in his corner, Jon Pyzel’s career, matching that of his young charge, skyrocketed onto the world stage. A collaboration that has since led both to International fame, three World Titles, an Olympic appearance and a 2016 win at the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational contest at Waimea Bay.
And yet through all this meteoric rise, Jon Pyzel has remained a very plain spoken man, open with his opinions, well thought of and totally dedicated to his friends and family. Today he splits his time between Bali and Hawaii, still innovating and seeking the ultimate surfboard. We caught up with Jon at home on the North Shore for this very candid conversation with one of the most significant shapers in the world today.
What what was the greatest surfboard ever made…so far.
The greatest surfboard ever made so far… it was Tommy Curren’s California Thruster shaped by Al Merrick. I mean you could say that first Simon Anderson Thruster, but that wasn’t necessarily the exact board I would note in in my world. Now you have to tip your hat to Dick Brewer’s boards too. I mean, if you really look carefully at some of the things that Dick Brewer has done… I mean he was putting concaves in the bottom of boards while everyone else was still making rolled bottoms…but Brewer’s boards had full concaves, which is exactly what we use for all of our modern short boards these days. Pretty much some version of that. And it’s pretty crazy if you look at the Sunset guns that Brewer was building in the 70’s. Those boards were so advanced design wise. The hydrodynamic designs of those boards are something that we use in in all of our boards today. So this Brewer thought…ummmm, yeah…but I can’t pinpoint an exact board of Brewer’s like I can with Al Merrick’s Tommy board.
We know you think about Tommy with that Al Merrick board, but what surfer do you associate with Brewers historic boards?
Reno Abellira for sure. That guy…And Owl Chapman was another one actually. You know Owl is still shaping those boards today and they are in high demand. I mean, sure, I wasn’t there in the 70’s, but I have studied it. It wasn’t something I was seeing happening, but I learned that it once happened. And that it was important to the evolution of design. I remember just tripping out looking at some of these old Brewer’s and I’m like, wait a minute. Like putting a straight edge across them and these things got a quarter-inch of concave running through the whole bottom. Incredibly futuristic. What those guys were doing back then was really pushing it into the future. Our future. That time frame was the history’s most dynamic in design changes. Like we don’t do that now, right? Like we change the rocker by a quarter-inch and that’s f*cking huge. But these 70’s guys were chopping two feet off their boards and changing everything about them. So can I say two greatest boards? The Al Merrick and somewhere in there would be one of Dick Brewer’s. Somebody owns it. I know it’s still around, I can feel it. Or I guess you could just go grab one of Owl’s. He’s shaping one right now down the street.
Who was the Greatest surfer that ever lived.
I just feel like Tom Curren is pretty hard to beat. He was just so good and connected and stylish and he had that mystique. That thing you can’t put your finger on. That…genius? And if you just look at everybody’s lineage up to the best surfers of today, they’re all still celebrating and praising Tommy and studying him. Even John John. Hell yes, for sure. You talk to all the top guys and Tommy is always in the conversation. They will definitely put him in their wheelhouse. And let’s face it, that J-Bay wave of Tommy’s never get’s old. And you can’t really say that about too many single rides throughout history. I just think Tommy was so influential to everyone style wise, creative wise…and he was an incredible test pilot. Probably the best test pilot in history when you think about it. Fine tuning and figuring out Simon’s Thruster with Al Merrick. Yeah, and that relationship that he had with Al and the way that everything just came together… there was a real magic there. For both of them. Al got to benefit so much from that, having somebody of that caliber to shape for and then for Tom the exact same thing. Having somebody that could could help him realize what he wanted to do on a wave and where he wanted to go on a wave. Tom is now in his 60’s and is still an influential surfer, still somebody everybody loves to see ride a wave. So think of it this way when it comes to influence. There are millions of surfers today that have been watching Tommy since they were 13 years old and are still loving how he surfs. That’s a…wow…a huge span of influence on the sport right there.
Who is the greatest shaper ever?
I think I have made that point pretty clear already. Ha!
What is the greatest wave on earth?
For me, I think about great waves as test tracks. A place you can test all aspects of a board. So for high performance boards, I am going to say perfect six foot Rincon. That’s a perfectly paced, perfectly rippable wave that you can ride fast or slow and really feel and analyze a board. There is even places where it pauses and you can collect yourself and your thoughts and then keep going. Ok, obviously there’s way better waves than Rincon in the world for sure. I mean, there’s a reason I live on the North Shore, right? But as far as just like paddling out somewhere and testing a board and catching a wave and feeling that length of ride and the different speeds and different sections and doing twenty five turns and twenty five cutbacks and being able to feel it and think about it when your are riding?…I am going to say Rincon for me.
Who has been the greatest thinking mind in surfing?
I think Derek Hynd would be in that conversation. I mean he’s out there, and always has been, but that’s what it takes to break through to the other side. Yeah, he’s interesting. He wrote a lot of interesting stuff and did those power rankings with a level of honesty and analysis that no one since has even touched. And he was one of the first coaches and he got real results. And remember he was ranked 7th in the world at one time so his surfing is legit. Remember those sliding 360’s he would do? And then he lost his eye in that surf accident, but he just kept going, kept it up, kept his perspectives. And don’t forget he and Sonny Miller came up with The Search concept. That took brains. And he was involved in the the high offices of Rip Curl’s whole trip as what we would call today a “Creative”. He just did a real good job of dissecting surfing. The whole culture. And we needed that at the time. And he is still out there, pushing it on his finless tangent. So yeah. A real thinker. And I think we’re lucky to have him.
When can surfing be seen at it’s greatest?
When it is done with what looks like effortless flow and ocean connection and beauty and power and just really holding rail turns and taking them all the way. And airs? They’re cool if done right. If done with meaning. I love a big giant air well executed, but seeing a guy do like three air reverses on one wave doesn’t float my boat, you know what I mean? Let’s see some turns and carves that you can hear from the beach.
What is the greatest thing about Kelly Slater?
His ability to surf so well and so hard and so often for his entire life. The greatest thing about Kelly is his dedication to being a surfer. That’s it. Aside from the whole superstar thing, this guy is an inspiration as just a day to day surfer. Despite the trophies, a real surfer, a stoked surfer, from the ground up.
Who is Greatest the greatest female surfer ever?
Lisa Anderson. She was just so cool and she didn’t really care about whether it was women’s or Men’s surfing. She just wanted to rip. She was like punk rock in boardshorts. She wasn’t there to be a cute girl surfer. She was there to f*cking kick anybody’s ass, male or female. Like Tommy with the guys, I think that every female surfer today has Lisa in their DNA of influence. She’s a Godmother to what’s going on today with all these incredible female performances.
What do you think is the world’s greatest contest?
The Backdoor shootout. It’s the real deal. It invariably gets the best waves at Pipeline of the season. And then they they have this format that’s just amazing. There not heats, it’s more like watching everybody’s best short session of the year. Most times I even forget who wins. Who cares? Everybody rips in that contest, full bore. C’mon, it’s hard to beat that. I understand what the WSL is doing with the tour grind, but it’s great to be reminded of how unique surfing is and how great a contest can really be with a little freedom thrown in.
Who’s the greatest barrel rider you’ve ever seen?
John John. What makes him so great, other than changing everything with the double arm drag, which let’s face it, has allowed guys to stay in the barrel forever, what makes him so special is his comfort way back and deep in a barrel. He’s way back there and still thinking and still choosing lines and just making it out of impossible situations because he is back in there not losing his sh*t. Instead, he’s really composed and calm and thinking about how to exit and never giving up on it. Like, if he doesn’t make a barrel, it’s not a wipe-out, it’s just that the wave decided to stop him. I believe that. It’s a kind of mastery that allows him to do the same thing in 30 foot surf. The kind of mastery that makes the rest of us just go…Holy Sh*t, that was impossible.
What is the greatest thing about John John today?
His curiosity. It drives everything he does He always wants to learn more. About so many things. He’s on a journey of discovery on so many levels and he’s absorbing it all. It’s like watching someone become enlightened. I mean…he really tries his best to think about stuff at it’s highest level. To him, “good enough” isn’t. I really admire that in him. And his capability. He just does so much with so much capability. The sailing, the films, the family, the surfing, the bees…ha!. He is the most competent World Champion we have ever had. And I hope the next generation takes note and understands that and hops on board with that kind of life.
What is the greatest advice you could give to a backyard shaper?
Can I answer this one with a story? I am at Trestles for the finals, right? And I am standing there with Chris Borst watching Caity Simmers win the World Title. And I guess you could say Borst has a reputation as a backyard shaper, but he’s also this super cool rad skater guy. And so we are watching the finals and I knew at the time that a lot of shapers were trying to get Caity to switch from Borst’s boards to to their boards, just trying to shamelessly sling boards at her. And I mention to him that I have always been in the same situation with John John. That guys are always skukling around trying to get him to try their boards. And then that finals day my guy won the world title and Borst’s girl won the world title and we’re standing there not sure what to say to each other. So I just got him a beer and said welcome to the club. You just got a world championship, dude, and you won a world title with a surfboard you made with your hands and I am stoked for you. You did the job, man! It was a great moment for him. So… I guess my advice to backyard shapers is to keep shaping the best you can for your surfers and just tell everybody else to f*ck off.
What is your greatest hope for the future?
That no matter how much we punish it…that the ocean will always win.
Jon Pyzel’s pedigree runs much deeper than just being the shaper for the best surfer on the planet. You gotta go back a bit. As a teen surfer kid in Santa Barbara, Jon Pyzel was close witness to the birth of the 80’s Tommy Curren era and Al Merrick’s subsequent global design dominance. A powerful influence that caused Jon to pivot his dreams from a pro surfing career to an underground shaping career. At first mentored by shaper Matt Moore of the famed Rincon Designs surf shop (that was within sight of California’s best point break), Jon upped stakes when he moved to the North Shore in 1992. It was there, now mentored by maestro shaper Jeff Bushman and possessing a keen interest in modernizing the Hawaiian designs that came before his time, that Jon Pyzel developed a reputation as a shaper for the future.
As it happened, John John Florence and his family lived right next door. A lifelong friendship with the Florence family grew and soon Jon Pyzel was shaping boards for the blond young man who would someday become the best surfer in the world. With the ultimate test pilot securely in his corner, Jon Pyzel’s career, matching that of his young charge, skyrocketed onto the world stage. A collaboration that has since led both to International fame, three World Titles, an Olympic appearance and a 2016 win at the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational contest at Waimea Bay.
And yet through all this meteoric rise, Jon Pyzel has remained a very plain spoken man, open with his opinions, well thought of and totally dedicated to his friends and family. Today he splits his time between Bali and Hawaii, still innovating and seeking the ultimate surfboard. We caught up with Jon at home on the North Shore for this very candid conversation with one of the most significant shapers in the world today.
What what was the greatest surfboard ever made…so far.
The greatest surfboard ever made so far… it was Tommy Curren’s California Thruster shaped by Al Merrick. I mean you could say that first Simon Anderson Thruster, but that wasn’t necessarily the exact board I would note in in my world. Now you have to tip your hat to Dick Brewer’s boards too. I mean, if you really look carefully at some of the things that Dick Brewer has done… I mean he was putting concaves in the bottom of boards while everyone else was still making rolled bottoms…but Brewer’s boards had full concaves, which is exactly what we use for all of our modern short boards these days. Pretty much some version of that. And it’s pretty crazy if you look at the Sunset guns that Brewer was building in the 70’s. Those boards were so advanced design wise. The hydrodynamic designs of those boards are something that we use in in all of our boards today. So this Brewer thought…ummmm, yeah…but I can’t pinpoint an exact board of Brewer’s like I can with Al Merrick’s Tommy board.
We know you think about Tommy with that Al Merrick board, but what surfer do you associate with Brewers historic boards?
Reno Abellira for sure. That guy…And Owl Chapman was another one actually. You know Owl is still shaping those boards today and they are in high demand. I mean, sure, I wasn’t there in the 70’s, but I have studied it. It wasn’t something I was seeing happening, but I learned that it once happened. And that it was important to the evolution of design. I remember just tripping out looking at some of these old Brewer’s and I’m like, wait a minute. Like putting a straight edge across them and these things got a quarter-inch of concave running through the whole bottom. Incredibly futuristic. What those guys were doing back then was really pushing it into the future. Our future. That time frame was the history’s most dynamic in design changes. Like we don’t do that now, right? Like we change the rocker by a quarter-inch and that’s f*cking huge. But these 70’s guys were chopping two feet off their boards and changing everything about them. So can I say two greatest boards? The Al Merrick and somewhere in there would be one of Dick Brewer’s. Somebody owns it. I know it’s still around, I can feel it. Or I guess you could just go grab one of Owl’s. He’s shaping one right now down the street.
Who was the Greatest surfer that ever lived.
I just feel like Tom Curren is pretty hard to beat. He was just so good and connected and stylish and he had that mystique. That thing you can’t put your finger on. That…genius? And if you just look at everybody’s lineage up to the best surfers of today, they’re all still celebrating and praising Tommy and studying him. Even John John. Hell yes, for sure. You talk to all the top guys and Tommy is always in the conversation. They will definitely put him in their wheelhouse. And let’s face it, that J-Bay wave of Tommy’s never get’s old. And you can’t really say that about too many single rides throughout history. I just think Tommy was so influential to everyone style wise, creative wise…and he was an incredible test pilot. Probably the best test pilot in history when you think about it. Fine tuning and figuring out Simon’s Thruster with Al Merrick. Yeah, and that relationship that he had with Al and the way that everything just came together… there was a real magic there. For both of them. Al got to benefit so much from that, having somebody of that caliber to shape for and then for Tom the exact same thing. Having somebody that could could help him realize what he wanted to do on a wave and where he wanted to go on a wave. Tom is now in his 60’s and is still an influential surfer, still somebody everybody loves to see ride a wave. So think of it this way when it comes to influence. There are millions of surfers today that have been watching Tommy since they were 13 years old and are still loving how he surfs. That’s a…wow…a huge span of influence on the sport right there.
Who is the greatest shaper ever?
I think I have made that point pretty clear already. Ha!
What is the greatest wave on earth?
For me, I think about great waves as test tracks. A place you can test all aspects of a board. So for high performance boards, I am going to say perfect six foot Rincon. That’s a perfectly paced, perfectly rippable wave that you can ride fast or slow and really feel and analyze a board. There is even places where it pauses and you can collect yourself and your thoughts and then keep going. Ok, obviously there’s way better waves than Rincon in the world for sure. I mean, there’s a reason I live on the North Shore, right? But as far as just like paddling out somewhere and testing a board and catching a wave and feeling that length of ride and the different speeds and different sections and doing twenty five turns and twenty five cutbacks and being able to feel it and think about it when your are riding?…I am going to say Rincon for me.
Who has been the greatest thinking mind in surfing?
I think Derek Hynd would be in that conversation. I mean he’s out there, and always has been, but that’s what it takes to break through to the other side. Yeah, he’s interesting. He wrote a lot of interesting stuff and did those power rankings with a level of honesty and analysis that no one since has even touched. And he was one of the first coaches and he got real results. And remember he was ranked 7th in the world at one time so his surfing is legit. Remember those sliding 360’s he would do? And then he lost his eye in that surf accident, but he just kept going, kept it up, kept his perspectives. And don’t forget he and Sonny Miller came up with The Search concept. That took brains. And he was involved in the the high offices of Rip Curl’s whole trip as what we would call today a “Creative”. He just did a real good job of dissecting surfing. The whole culture. And we needed that at the time. And he is still out there, pushing it on his finless tangent. So yeah. A real thinker. And I think we’re lucky to have him.
When can surfing be seen at it’s greatest?
When it is done with what looks like effortless flow and ocean connection and beauty and power and just really holding rail turns and taking them all the way. And airs? They’re cool if done right. If done with meaning. I love a big giant air well executed, but seeing a guy do like three air reverses on one wave doesn’t float my boat, you know what I mean? Let’s see some turns and carves that you can hear from the beach.
What is the greatest thing about Kelly Slater?
His ability to surf so well and so hard and so often for his entire life. The greatest thing about Kelly is his dedication to being a surfer. That’s it. Aside from the whole superstar thing, this guy is an inspiration as just a day to day surfer. Despite the trophies, a real surfer, a stoked surfer, from the ground up.
Who is Greatest the greatest female surfer ever?
Lisa Anderson. She was just so cool and she didn’t really care about whether it was women’s or Men’s surfing. She just wanted to rip. She was like punk rock in boardshorts. She wasn’t there to be a cute girl surfer. She was there to f*cking kick anybody’s ass, male or female. Like Tommy with the guys, I think that every female surfer today has Lisa in their DNA of influence. She’s a Godmother to what’s going on today with all these incredible female performances.
What do you think is the world’s greatest contest?
The Backdoor shootout. It’s the real deal. It invariably gets the best waves at Pipeline of the season. And then they they have this format that’s just amazing. There not heats, it’s more like watching everybody’s best short session of the year. Most times I even forget who wins. Who cares? Everybody rips in that contest, full bore. C’mon, it’s hard to beat that. I understand what the WSL is doing with the tour grind, but it’s great to be reminded of how unique surfing is and how great a contest can really be with a little freedom thrown in.
Who’s the greatest barrel rider you’ve ever seen?
John John. What makes him so great, other than changing everything with the double arm drag, which let’s face it, has allowed guys to stay in the barrel forever, what makes him so special is his comfort way back and deep in a barrel. He’s way back there and still thinking and still choosing lines and just making it out of impossible situations because he is back in there not losing his sh*t. Instead, he’s really composed and calm and thinking about how to exit and never giving up on it. Like, if he doesn’t make a barrel, it’s not a wipe-out, it’s just that the wave decided to stop him. I believe that. It’s a kind of mastery that allows him to do the same thing in 30 foot surf. The kind of mastery that makes the rest of us just go…Holy Sh*t, that was impossible.
What is the greatest thing about John John today?
His curiosity. It drives everything he does He always wants to learn more. About so many things. He’s on a journey of discovery on so many levels and he’s absorbing it all. It’s like watching someone become enlightened. I mean…he really tries his best to think about stuff at it’s highest level. To him, “good enough” isn’t. I really admire that in him. And his capability. He just does so much with so much capability. The sailing, the films, the family, the surfing, the bees…ha!. He is the most competent World Champion we have ever had. And I hope the next generation takes note and understands that and hops on board with that kind of life.
What is the greatest advice you could give to a backyard shaper?
Can I answer this one with a story? I am at Trestles for the finals, right? And I am standing there with Chris Borst watching Caity Simmers win the World Title. And I guess you could say Borst has a reputation as a backyard shaper, but he’s also this super cool rad skater guy. And so we are watching the finals and I knew at the time that a lot of shapers were trying to get Caity to switch from Borst’s boards to to their boards, just trying to shamelessly sling boards at her. And I mention to him that I have always been in the same situation with John John. That guys are always skukling around trying to get him to try their boards. And then that finals day my guy won the world title and Borst’s girl won the world title and we’re standing there not sure what to say to each other. So I just got him a beer and said welcome to the club. You just got a world championship, dude, and you won a world title with a surfboard you made with your hands and I am stoked for you. You did the job, man! It was a great moment for him. So… I guess my advice to backyard shapers is to keep shaping the best you can for your surfers and just tell everybody else to f*ck off.
What is your greatest hope for the future?
That no matter how much we punish it…that the ocean will always win.
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