CAUGHT INSIDE # 133



It’s a new day. And that is always cause for celebration. And we start this Surftime with an image that perfectly illustrates he brotherhood of competition. Especially at this year’s Rip Curl Cup. Here is Mason Ho and Winner Noa Deane embracing in the sunset light post final. And perhaps that was the real spirituality of the Cup this year. The kind that comes with camaraderie, regardless of where you are from. Despite the challenging conditions on the final day, as you will see in our big feature this year, the overall the surfing on the Cup’s two days of competition was insane. And the timeless Padang Padang Barrels, those beautiful spinning vortices that are her gift to us, were ridden with the verve and the aplomb we have all come to expect. We hope you really dig the giant full-page photos by master lensman Nate Lawrence. It is his camera that tells the real story, so take the time to really check them out. And of course there is plenty more in the issue, and you might have noticed our new logo on the cover. A bold new look to keep things fresh and appealing to the new generation coming up in the waves of our enchanting island home.

You will also find a remarkable look back through the eyes and the thoughts of master photographer Jason Childs. As you will see, his soulful images were the first to capture the true meaning of surfing in Indonesia. And the wild cast of characters that make it so. We also check in to G-land and the boys who came over to pay their respects to the Tsunami that almost ended their lives so long ago. A sincere homage and thank you to the great spirits of the ocean that spared their lives. Photographer Damea Dorsey spent some time on an outer island of ours with his friend, the astonishing Kai Lenny. The results of which form a very intimate portrait of Kai and the intimate thoughts from Damea when it comes to what it takes to get truly honest images of our biggest stars. Believe us, it’s more than just friendship, it’s a partnership as you will soon see.

And of course, as we all know, over on Lombok, Desert Point has been pumping and of course Photographer Pete Frieden was their to capture it all, as he always is. When he hears her siren’s call, it’s the only place you will find him. Wait until you see what he has brought back alive. And we even have a beautifully written essay by 14-year-old Una Tasman. A really mature love letter to surfing that we think everyone will find a bit of themselves in. A real promising young writer whom we hope to hear more from as we move ahead. So here it is, our dry season special. We know you will enjoy it, after all, it’s our consuming passion and now its in the palm of your hands.

-Matt George, Editor-in-Chief

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